Summer in Sweden (Part 1)

When we did the main part of our European Tour in 2010/11 we were aware that we were rushing through quite a lot of places that we would really like to have stayed longer. Sweden was one of those places - which is why we chose this year to re-visit. Having started to write the blog we were reminded of just how much there is to see and do, which is why this is going to be a two-parter!

Windmills on Oland

Our first thoughts of Sweden before we travelled were the obvious ones - Abba, snow, saunas and lots of blonde people (usually frolicking in the snow on their way to the sauna). Our other references came from Swedish crime drama, of which we are both big fans. Having just watched 'The Bridge' and endless repeats of 'Wallander' you might think that there is a gruesome murder every 15 minutes.

So we can confirm that there are indeed lots of blonde people in Sweden and yes there are lots of saunas too. Many campsite have saunas, some of which make a small charge and some of which are provided for free. We can also confirm that there are NOT lots of murders in Sweden but if you are fans of crime drama, you can do lots of site spotting, particularly in the south.

The harbour at Ystad

In terms of the practicalities, we have tried a couple of ways of getting there. Sweden is well connected via ferry directly to Germany, Denmark, Poland and the Baltic States leaving you plenty of options. Assuming you are travelling from the UK, your best options are the Travemunde (Germany) day long crossing to Trelleborg on the south coast. Other options include the shorter ferries from Helsingor (Denmark) to Helingborg or of course there is the amazing 5 miles long Oresund Bridge, which is actually a combination of bridge and tunnels. 

As we couldn't work out the best way to go based on price, we did a round trip using the Travemunde ferry to get over and the Oresund Bridge to get back. The bridge has the added advantage of taking you right past Copenhagen, which makes a fantastic stop if you have a couple of spare days.

Once you are there you can expect Sweden to be generally a lot less busy than other summer destinations, with a few tourist hot spots. The climate may come as a surprise because although it doesn't get as hot as southern Europe, you can still expect temperatures in the mid to high 20s.

Swedish archipelego

The southern coast is basically one massive sandy beach, which seems to run the entire width of the country. The campsites here do get busy, mainly with German tourists. However, there is so much beach to go at that it is still possible to find yourself a quiet spot. There are many beautiful villages and towns all along this stretch all accessible on relatively quiet and easily navigable, toll-free roads. Inland from the beach, are acres of open, mainly flat country made up of corn and wheat field. Before the harvest it is essentially gold, green and blue as far as the eye can see. 

We travelled from Trelleborg along the coast focussing on the area beteen the two major harbour towns of Ystad (a must for Wallander fans) and Simrishamn which are at either end of this beautiful stretch. If you travel east from Trelleborg you can follow the coastline all the way round to Malmo, which itself is worth a visit. As well as the main towns, the tiny harbour of Kasaberga is worth a visit. It is home to a handful of fish restaurants, but the real star is the Ale's Stones, a megalithic monument made up of 60 large boulders forming the footprint of a boat, perched on a windswept cliff face next to the Baltic Sea. It's stunning at sunrise or sunset and you can stay overnight on a massive aire for about a tenner.

Giving alms in Karlskrona

Our plan was to follow the coast all the way up to Stockholm and there are lots of choices as you head north. We visited the glass blowing area known as the Kingdom of Crystal where you can buy or even blow your own glass. We also visited the naval town of Karlskrona and the coastal town of Kalmar, with its castle. From here you can cross the (free) bridge onto Oland (The Island). This is one of Sweden's hotspots in summer, particularly popular with Stockholmers. It's small enough to drive around in a day and boasts a couple of castles and hundreds of small windmills, some of which date back to the 17th century.

Our journey then continued north towards Stockholm, which on this occasion would be our most northerly point. More on that plus Sweden's two largest lakes and a trip across the Oresund Bridge in part two!